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They are also very helpful when threading new pipes into position without getting dirt into their ends. Looking around it seems that a tool such as this would enable me to replace a small part of the existing pipe. We supply customised brake accessories for all makes and models of car, together with a choice of brake fitting kits containing everything you need to repair or replace whichever part requires work. You are correct, I have done them before but it must be 20 odd years ago, I have done many many things on vehicles though including engines and boxes out, gearbox strip downs/repairs, I replaced the AC condenser on our van and gassed it myself and also replaced a bearing inside the front differential on my A4 with a sandwich toaster and an oven recently. If you are working on the longer pipe that runs to the off-side wheel arch you will need to bend and work it round the frame.
A lot depends on if you are doing steel, stainless or kunifer - and if you ned to do it on the vehicle or not. Jack up the car under the rear subframe in the middle and put jack stands under the rear trailing arms near the pivot point for access. Working under the rear of the car, first work the brake pipe free from the recess in the middle of the floorpan where there is a sharp 90 degree bend so it doesn't get caught during removal.
Before you jack up the car loosen the wheel nuts a little on the wheels you are going to remove, then jack the car up, support it and take the wheels off. There are 2 of these tools available, the other does SAE flares which is a different type to what the TT requires which is a DIN bubble flare.
The 103 third parties who use cookies on this service do so for their purposes of displaying and measuring personalized ads, generating audience insights, and developing and improving products. If you want to replace your brake lines with steel, you will need to drop the whole subframe rather than follow this simple procedure. Another vote for Franklin/Powerhand type, they're easy to use on the vehicle and I've never had a problem flaring steel or copper with mine. Position it so that it can easily be pushed out as a single piece between the front wheels of the car as you release it from the rear subframe. Can I recognise a good flare - I can probably spot if its not turned out right and a badly made flare will leak where as a good one won't.You can change your choices at any time by visiting Cookie preferences, as described in the Cookie notice. Here is the contents of the kit, there is a video on line that shows how easy it is to use, comes with full instructions.
This main lines connect to the rear brake line from the front and runs the full underbody of the vehicle. First locate the rear fitment of the brake pipe you will be replacing - this is where the brake pipe terminates in a fitting with the rubber brake hose that goes into your brake caliper. If you are replacing rear brake pipes I would strongly recommend that you have some spare Type 4 black screw nuts shown in the photo as these often break on removal - they are available very cheaply from your dealer. So if you're in the same situation as me with a failed MOT, before you go ahead and replace the brake pipes try cleaning them up in situ - check them carefully, but they could be fine. Starting at the front of the car, lift the bonnet, unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap and place a rubber glove over it before screwing it back down to form an air tight seal.pipe bender ensures a consistent internal diameter right across the bend compared to oversized pipe benders designed for plumbing. You can probably get away with pre-bending the pipe on the front brake pipes, but I'd really recommend you do not pre-bend the pipe if you are replacing the rear brake pipes or you will never get it over the subframe. It will not burst under brake pressure (your rubber brake seals in your calipers would burst before the copper pipe). Removing the old brake pipes should now be easy - the key is to try not to break them as they are full of fluid. On right hand drive cars the near-side is easier to remove than the off-side (driver's side), but neither is truly difficult to remove as a single item if planned.
Replacing your brake pipes is not hard, but it does take some time and does require special (although cheap) tools. This is possible with the car on a full height lift and after removing various shields etc, maybe the fuel tank, it will probably not be possible on axle stands.
Copper is expensive, too soft and bendy to prefabricate and without extensive prefabrication manufacturing costs would rise. Some fixings are of the simple clip type and can be sprung simply by pulling the brake pipe away from the fixing (Type 1 and 3), some have to be levered open before the brake pipes can be sprung lose (Type 2), some can be removed after you have the brake pipe out (Type 5) and some on the rear pipes are held in by a screw bolt fixing (Type 4). However, the golden rule is never to question the "MOT man" (especially as I know him so well) - so there was nothing for it but to rip out the brake lines and replace everything. The time has come to fit new brake lines, I intend to make my own so will need a cutting/flaring kit. With the tray removed you should be able to see all the brake pipe to body fixings and gain access to them.
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