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Revell 30ml Decal Soft

£9.9£99Clearance
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We use a Secure Server for collecting personal and credit card information. The secure server layer (SSL) encrypts (scrambles) all of the information you enter before it is transmitted over the Internet and sent to us. All of the customer data we collect is protected against unauthorised access as per the Data Protection Act. Decals consist of an image printed onto a thin film. The film is brittle and plastic, in the technical sense that it remembers its shape (a flat sheet) and will try to return to it if possible. That means that unless you’re applying the decal to a perfectly flat surface like a mirror, you’re going to end up with gaps underneath the decal, which will result in bubbles that will ruin the finish. Air gaps beneath the decal will result in an uneven finish Before you apply decals, you’ll need to have your workspace cleared and all the necessary tools on hand. Here is a list of the tools you’ll need: Start off by carefully selecting the decal that you are going to place onto your model. Use a fresh hobby knife blade to cut as close to the artwork/lettering as you possibly can, so there is little or none of the unwanted clear vinyl that the self-adhesive decal is printed on. You can use a pair of scissors to cut out the decal, but you may find that a hobby knife is better suited to the task.

Revell Decal Soft, 30 ml - 3DJake UK

By process of trial and error (mostly error) I have worked out what I think is the best way to add decals to your miniatures. For anyone who’s built a model kit or wargaming miniature and been really pleased with the paint job, only to have it ruined by crappily finished decals, here’s my guide to doing them right, enhanced by my laughably amateurish diagrams. Below is an overview of the decal process, so give it a read and get your models looking as incredible as possible!

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Second, the blue Microset bottle looks a LOT like the bottle that the Liquid Decal Film comes in. You do not want to splosh this on your model instead of Microset unless you really want to start painting again! Another lesson learnt the hard way! First, although Microsol is not the strongest solution available it can be too much for some decals. I always test on an unwanted decal from any decal sheet to make sure it won't destroy the ones I intend to use on the model. If there is a problem you can always dilute the solution with water. I'd recommend this no matter which of the decal solutions you are using. This is a lesson I learnt the hard way!

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Your local hobby shop will probably sell a decal softener such as Revell’s Decal Soft. That’s what I use and it works fine for me. For any tight curves or areas that the decal needs to conform to that is not flat, you can apply a little heat using a hairdryer set to low (so as not to distort or melt the decal or model part). Once the decal is in place, carefully warm the area with the hairdryer to make the decal soft so that you can push out any creases or bubbles that may have appeared.Edit @ October 2016: be very careful when soaking up the excess softener as any agitation can cause the decal to warp or break! I swear by Testor’s Dull-cote, but Army Painter’s matt spray looks good and there are probably plenty of others. Avoid Games Workshop’s Purity Seal if at all possible, unless you like your minis frosted. Adding a matt finish takes the shine off the gloss varnish without taking away to protective layer. Updated: November 10, 2016 I use the Microset/Microsol system myself. It's the blue bottle (MICROSET) which should be brushed onto the model. A dilute solution of white vinegar will serve the same purpose of softening the decal film slightly. The red bottle (MICROSOL) is the one that should be applied later and is a stronger solvent. It's one, or several, applications of this which will get that decal snuggled down. To seal the decal completely, you can now apply a thin layer of varnish or Klear and allow it to dry.

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Once the decal is in position and you’ve removed the excess water, apply the softener with a brush and leave it for a couple of minutes, before soaking up the excess. Essentially the dreaded silvering, where the decal carrier film becomes visible, is caused by microscopic air bubbles under the decal. There is a much higher likelihood of this occurring on a rough, matt, surface than on a smoother gloss one. Edit @ October 2016: use as little water as possible. I use a plastic box lid with just a few drops of water.Edit @ October 2016: as above, use a spray lacquer. Another gloss coat protects the decal and gives it an even finish which matches the paint underneath.

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Now I don't know if finger nail polish remover will work on all decals and it may be too hot for some decals straight out of the bottle, but I'm going to try it on my next decal for the project I'm working on and we'll see what happens IRL.Once you are happy with the position of the decal, dab another paper towel on the decal to soak up any left over water. Edit @ October 2016: nowadays I spray the entire model with a clear lacquer from Halfords (recommended to me by Phil Stutcinskas, a member of the Forge World studio), instead of painting varnish onto the surface where the decal is going to be applied. This protects the model, eliminates brush marks, and ensures an even finish. A layer of gloss varnish provides a smooth surface for the decal to adhere to. As you come to the end of a scale model build, you often have a few decisions to make – do you go for a polished finish, or a more weathered look? Do you keep the traditional colour scheme, or go for something more artistic and original? And do you use the provided decals, paint your own designs, or keep it clean? The latest discussion I could find on this was three years old so I decided rather than replying to it I would start a new topic. This type of decal is a little uncommon and should not be confused with water-slide decals or vinyl self-adhesive decals. Wet self-adhesive decals have adhesive on the rear of the decal, which when wet with water, allows the decal to be moved into the correct position before carefully wiping away any access water. This causes the decal adhesive to bond to the model permanently. A small amount of washing up liquid added to the water will help the decal to slide better until you are happy that you have it in the correct position.

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