Games Workshop Citadel Layer: Karak Stone

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Codex: Adeptus Custodes is full of insight into the Emperor’s glorious bananas, highlighting their nature, organization and secret wars, but if you want to read more, here are a few books we’d suggest that dive into greater detail on the Custodes. Add a little Ulthuan Grey to the Celestra Grey and layer up, leaving the darker color in the recesses

At this point, you’ll probably find paint from the drybrushing has gotten onto the armour. Simply neaten everything up with Russ Grey before continuing. Step 5 – Apply Armour Shading Add a little more Gorthor Brown and do a second, thinner highlight on all said edges and folds, focusing on raised areas Next, do exactly the same thing with Seraphim Sepia and Athonian Camoshade, thinning them down in the same way and applying each to approximately 20% of the stone surface. Try to avoid layering two different washes over the same area, but if they blend together a little around the edges that’s fine. Some areas should have no wash applied at all, leaving the original stone colour showing through. Wait for the washes to dry and that’s it! You’re done! For my herdstone I plan to take things a step further by adding moss and lichen, but that’s a subject for another tutorial.Shade all the Eshin Grey joint areas of the armour with NuIn Oil. Take care to keep it off the Russ Grey coloured armour. Again, if you make a mistake, just let it dry fully and tidy up with some Russ Grey. Step 6 – Highlight the Armour I’m aiming for a degree of realism with this model, and that goes for the skeletons too. To achieve this, I needed to think about how a body might look if it had been strung up and left in the elements until only the bones remained. That meant looking at a lot of reference images of ancient mummies, desiccated corpses and other such unpleasant things. The final look achieved using the process set out in this tutorial is the culmination of that macabre research. Using the edge of your paintbrush apply an edge highlight of Fenrisian Grey around all the armour panels. There are also tons of ways of spicing up this style of base. Tiny grass tufts, skulls, or spare weapons scattered about will all make these bases stand out even more. Maybe add tiny ponds, swamps, or putrid green bile-pools. The sky’s the limit! Well, the desert is, but still. Wasteland-Style Goodbyes For the second highlight, go over most of the same area again, but with Stormvermin Fur . This time be more selective and aim for prominent curved edges, corners and points. Drag your brush towards the centre, to ensure the most pigment ends up in what should be the brightest area.

Because the cork will be soaking up some of the pressure you’re applying, you probably won’t get your green stuff perfectly smooth and even - again, this is fine. You can see in the second picture below that mine even has a big indentation with a clear thumbprint. It doesn’t matter! The detail that we’re going to add, plus the paint job, will make it barely noticeable. Next it’s time to sculpt the flagstones and, if you’re worried that you can’t sculpt, don’t be! This process is very forgiving. You’ll see that my flagstones look lumpy and uneven as hell, but we can use that to our advantage and when they’re painted up it all seems to work out. Glaze all over with extremely thinned Guilliman Blue, about 1:4 glaze to Lahmian Medium (I understand this is an OOP color, Talassar Blue from the Contrast range would work as well, but probably thinned 1:6 due to the stronger color)Face & Beard – Paint the whole face Cadian Fleshtone. Layer with Kislev Flesh. Highlight with Flayed One Flesh. Heydemann, Steven; Joint Committee on the Near and Middle East (2000). War, Institutions, and Social Change in the Middle East. University of California Press. ISBN 9780520224223. First off, I’m gonna go over my basing technique, as basing, even moreso than these shared textures, is a fantastic way to unite such varied schemes.