Uni POSCA PC-7M Paint Marker Art Pens - Large Bullet Nib 4.5-5.5mm - 15 Colours - New for 2017 - Blue

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As for covers, hardbound covers have more to offer in terms of protection and longevity than paper or fabric covers. The latter, however, makes portability a breeze as they make the book/pad lighter Acid-Free

After you have seen this ink filled in the tip of the pen, you can start applying it to whatever surface you would like. With that being said, you must remember that this ink gets hard when it dries when applied to a porous surface. However, the ink can be wiped away with a sponge, wash cloth, or water if it’s still wet. You should account for this if you make a mistake and the ink is still wet. Glass – semi-permanent for window displays (draw on the inside of the window and remove by scruubbing off with window cleaner), on glass items you can fit in an oven they are permanent (for light use) after baked.Considering how expensive the Posca pens are, it would be such a shame to waste precious ink on any paper only to have your artwork ruined at some point. That is why we’ve compiled the best papers for Posca pens in this informative post to help you get the most out of these premium paint pens. Choosing Paper For Posca Pens

All papers are not created equal. Some are excellent for pencil art but perform dismally with paint pens. That is why considering the nuances of different papers is critical before selecting one for your Posca pens. Here are the characteristics to look for; Weight Left to right: 0.7mm ultra-fine pin tip, 0.7mm extra-fine bullet tip, 0.9 – 1.3mm fine bullet tip, brush pen tip, 1.8 – 2.5mm medium bullet tip, 8mm chisel tip, 15mm extra-broad tip.

Artists Who Use Posca Pens

These paint markers are available in a range of sizes, which means that each item has a different period. Nonetheless, each paint marker is equipped with a high-quality nib that makes the pen long-lasting while stopping the pen from running or leaking. Posca pens are among the best things to ever happen to illustrative and creative minds. And if you are wondering what is so special about them, well, they are vivid, opaque, smooth, lightfast, and super versatile paint pens. The paint included in these markers is water-soluble, which means that the ink can be diluted to create an amazing gradient effect. With that being said, this process can take time to ensure it dries properly. One handy tip that you can do is use a brush that’s been soaked in water before starting any project. After applying the paint from the marker, trace over it with the set paintbrush. You should do this before the paint from these markers dry. Mix-Up the Markers Wood –works best when used on sealed surfaces and provided with a couple of thin coats of a varnish spray. I have had reports that Posca scratches off in some situations, so it would need to be varnished. I have been told that some brush-on varnishes smear it a bit. So the first coat of varnish should be a spray, to set it. Then apply a couple more thin coats of a hard, outdoor, UV protecting varnish like Golden MSA.

As with most painting projects the preparation of the surface is the most important part for creating a long-lasting object. It should be clean and free of oil or wax and if it is non-porous it will need to be roughed up a bit with sandpaper to create a ‘key’ for the paint to latch onto. Skipping the proper steps of preparation and jumping to the fun part of applying the colour causes problems for artists, craftspeople and house painters.Avoid super absorbent paper that will bleed and also soak the paint instantly. If the paper is not coated, at least it should be fine-grained. Visibly coarse paper may begin to pill when you go over it with the wet pens. Binding and Cover Paper– offers permanent results for all types of paper and cardboard. This includes photos, tracing paper, and correlated cardboard. The ink in these pens doesn’t bleed through the paper. Stone, concrete and plaster – best on sealed surfaces and then with a few thin coats of MSA spray varnish. The skull should be much easier since bone is porous unless it has been waxed or varnished. If it is very dry and porous you might want to apply a clear primer first so the paint doesn’t soak in and sit under the surface. Then paint with the posca and when it is dry varnish as above. If you wish the skull to not be shiny then for the last coat of varnish you can use a matt varnish. The first coats should be gloss because a build-up of the matt varnish will usually be cloudy, but one final coat of matt is fine. A smooth coat is critical, especially if you intend to blend and layer the paint. The coating minimizes the paint absorption speed, so you have a long window period to work the paint, mix colors and create smooth gradients before it dries.