Mitre Shears/Mitre Angle Trim/PVC Decking Cutter

Product Information

For the purposes of this DIY guide we’re going to be cutting mitres for a piece of architrave to go around a doorway. A mitre joint (often miter in American English) is a joint made by cutting each of two parts to be joined, across the main surface, usually at a 45° angle, to form a corner, usually to form a 90° angle, though it can comprise any angle greater than 0 degrees. It is called beveling when the angled cut is done on the side, although the resulting joint is still a mitre joint. [1] Finally, think about where you’re going to use it. Most mitre saws can be mounted to a workbench, but others have their own stand. The choice you make will be governed by how and where you’ll use it. Using a mitre saw with a decent blade will pretty much guarantee as perfect a joint as it possible.

As we saw above, depending on what technique you use, it may transpire that after you have cut your mitres, their not quite as accurate as you might like them to be.You can then use some decorators caulk to fill the gap left in the mitre joint. Use a caulk or skeleton gun to force the caulk into the joint until it is full. With our cutting point accurately marked, the next job is to setup our mitre saw to make our cut at the correct angle, in this case 45°. The best route to take is to always measure, mark and cut from the internal point of the joint and not the external. Cut the test piece in half, reverse one piece and fit them together as a flat joint. You will have one of three results. In the picture, from top to bottom, we have (first two greatly exaggerated): cutter too low; cutter too high; cutter just right.

Cutting in this position means that the saw blade will cut down through the centre of your pencil mark. As we have mentioned above, just make sure this is the exact point that you want to make your cut. If all is well and your cuts have been accurate you should now have a perfectly formed mitre joint. The sliding compound mitre saw (or mitre saw, double bevel mitre saw, dual bevel mitre saw – some of their other names) is an essential tool to have in your workshop if you do any regular DIY or if you have quite a few mitre joints to cut you should definitely consider buying one. Morso F Mitre Guillotine 1500mm Metric Morso F foot-operated guillotine cuts double 45° mitres, in wood and polymer mouldings for quality bespoke framing. The angle at which each piece of timber is cut to form the mitre joint is half of the total angle involved. As we have mentioned, most mitres are used to form a 90° turn as most rooms are square, or very nearly in the case of most modern buildings!Key specs – Bevel capacity: 0-45 degrees; Blade size: 210mm; No-load speed: 5,000rpm; Weight: 7.5kg Mitre saws are designed to make clean and precise angled cuts through materials such as wood, laminate and metal, while allowing you to easily rotate the blade and change the cutting angle to suit you. Choose from our range of mitre saws from brands such as Einhell, DeWalt and Makita.

Using the information on measuring and marking above, mark your points on the door frame or external area of the object your working on that defines the point that your mitre joint turns through 90°s; and then measure up from the floor to this point. If you are planning on painting your architrave or mitred timbers then it’s still possible to get a great looking finish.

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Along with the stand, it takes a while to assemble, but the instructions are clear. And once you’re done, it’s a mitre saw that’s as big in capability as it is in size. A huge 254mm blade cuts deep, and a 310mm sliding travel allows for particularly long cuts. A laser guide is a useful addition, but is better suited to indoor use as it struggles to be seen in bright sunlight. Whether you go for a single or double bevel saw will largely be driven by cost. Double bevel saws offer the most versatility, but also come with the highest price tags. Skilled users may be comfortable simply turning the workpiece upside down, but that might be over-complicated for those taking their first steps. This will vary depending on the type of blade you’re using and the type of saw, so teh best way to find out is to cut down through a piece of waste timber and then measure it. The first job is to get an accurate template of the angle so that we can calculate it. For this we can use an angle finder or angled/sliding bevel (see our project here on how to use one).