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Because of the reported benefits of hydroxy acids, many skin care companies have developed cosmetic products that include them. As with using any skincare acids, it's key to keep an eye out for any unwanted side effects or irritation. 'Although salicylic acid is actually a very good thing to use as a cleanser because you can rinse it off and you still get benefits, you probably want to watch out for having too much of it or leaving it on all over the face as it can be irritating to the skin,' explains Dr Emma Craythorne, dermatologist and Founder of KLIRA. What skin types should use salicylic acid?
People can also find them in low concentrations in over-the-counter prescription creams and lotions. A person should base their choice of skin product on which hydroxy acid is most suitable for their specific need.
The long-term safety of salicylic acid in cosmetics also is being evaluated in studies initiated by FDA and sponsored by the National Toxicology Program. These government-sponsored studies are examining the long-term effects of both glycolic acid (an AHA) and salicylic acid on the skin's response to ultraviolet (UV) light. These studies have determined that applying glycolic acid to the skin can make people more susceptible to the damaging effects of the sun, including sunburn. As it’s oil-soluble, salicylic acid can penetrate down into pores and dissolve excess sebum and debris, making it ideal for oily and acne-prone skin,’ explains Dr Zamani. It also regulates oil production.’ The safety of salicylic acid used as a cosmetic ingredient has been evaluated by both the cosmetic industry and FDA. At a meeting in February 2000, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, the cosmetic industry's independent body for reviewing the safety of cosmetic ingredients, reached the tentative conclusion that the use of salicylic acid related substances in cosmetics is "safe as used when formulated to avoid irritation and when formulated to avoid increased sun sensitivity." CIR added that "when sun sensitivity would be expected, directions for use [should] include the daily use of sun protection." AHAs work by exfoliating the skin. Exfoliation sheds surface skin cells. How much a product with AHAs exfoliates the skin depends on the concentration of the AHA ingredient, its acidity, and other ingredients found in it. Side effects As its name suggests, citric acid is made from citrus fruit extracts. Its main purpose is to neutralize the skin’s pH levels and to even out rough patches of skin. Citric acid makes a good serum or toner used before applying a moisturizer. It may even help work with sunscreen to provide maximum UV protection.
You've probably heard of salicylic acid already, as it's a popular choice for anyone struggling with breakouts and can be found in plenty of skincare products. Here’s a breakdown of exactly what it does: BHA seems to be more effective for treating skin conditions like acne because of its antibacterial properties. An anti-inflammatory effect can help skin to look less red and inflamed,’ she continues. ‘The general exfoliating effect will help the skin look brighter and smoother and allow other skincare products to penetrate the skin more effectively.’ Salicylic acid as an exfoliant The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel suggests that products containing glycolic acid and lactic acid are safe if:Lactic acid is another common AHA. Unlike other AHAs made from fruits, lactic acid is made from lactose in milk. It’s also known for its significant exfoliation and anti-aging effects. BHAs are also designed for daily use, but you may need to apply a few times per week at first until your skin gets accustomed to them. Although BHAs don’t make your skin as sensitive to the sun compared to AHAs, you should still wear sunscreen every single day. This will help prevent further sun damage. Salicylic acid No matter which AHA you choose, the strong exfoliating effects make your skin more sensitive to the sun. Wear sunscreen every morning to prevent burns, age spots, and increased skin cancer risks. Glycolic In the Women’s Health Lab, we turned to our panel of 343 women, asking them to trial 26 BHA exfoliating toners to see what impact they had on skin after a one-month period.
BHAs - that's beta-hydroxy acids - are here to help, combatting oiliness and helping to prevent breakouts, so you're left with the glowy skin you deserve.Not sure if it's right for your skin? Start with a low percentage, once a week, and build the usage up. If you notice redness or irritation then consider reducing how often you apply it, or stop entirely. Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that exfoliates the skin', explains founder of the Tempus Nu Yu Concept, cosmetic dermatologist and laser surgeon, Dr. Nada Soueidan. 'It is lipophilic which means that it is an oil soluble acid that can penetrate skin and clogged pores.' Currently, the BHA most commonly used in cosmetics is salicylic acid. On rare occasions, citric acid is also cited as a BHA in cosmetic formulations. More commonly, citric acid is referred to as an AHA. Until these safety assessments are completed, FDA advises that similar precautions be taken for the use of cosmetics containing AHAs and BHAs. These precautions are: Using AHAs comes with certain side effects. Most often, these side effects occur in skin peeling products. Side effects are local, meaning they affect the area of skin where the product was applied. They may include:
Are you considering a salicylic acid peel? You may want to first add a BHA exfoliant to your skincare routine. Daily use of an exfoliant will enhance the effectiveness of the other products in your routine as they will be absorbed faster because they don't have to penetrate a layer of dead skin cells first. While not as widely known, tartaric is another type of AHA. It’s made from grape extracts, and may help alleviate signs of sun damage and acne. The times are a-changing, and so are our exfoliating options. We've come a long way from our former, plastic bead-filled face scrubs, and now alternatives laced like beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) are on the rise for sloughing away pore-clogging dirt and excess oil. Before you dive into some of the best BHA products on the market, there are a few things to know about this mattifying skin-care ingredient. What are the benefits of BHAs? Getting sweaty during a workout is a sign of a job well done, but oily skin at any other time? Not so great. Test any product that contains a BHA on a small area of skin before applying it to a large area. If you use cosmetics with BHAs and experience skin irritation or prolonged stinging, stop using the product and consult your physician.
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If you are new to using salicylic acid products, we recommend initially using one twice a week and then gradually build up usage to once or twice daily. Apply after cleansing and toning. A liquid BHA exfoliant is best applied with a cotton pad. Apply a BHA gel or BHA lotion the same way you would a day or night cream. Apply over the entire face, including the eye area (avoid the lower lash line and eyelids). Do not rinse. Then simply follow with the rest of your skincare routine. For daytime, follow with a moisturiser that contains a broad-spectrum sunscreen rated SPF 30 or greater as the last step in your routine. Beauty begins with truth Zheng Y, et al. (2013). Clinical evidence on the efficacy and safety ofan antioxidant optimized 1.5% salicylic acid (SA) cream in the treatment offacial acne: An open, baseline-controlled clinical study. DOI:
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