Finish Line Teflon Synthetic Grease

Product Information

Your argument here is the hub grease will not only leak out of the sealed hub, cross over the pawls, pass then through the freehub seals in sufficient quantity to contaminate the freehub grease to render it ineffective before environmental contaminants would require you to service the hub anyway? That’s one desperate argument and Shimano’s grease is calcium based which is compatible with calcium and poly by your own charts. It’s simply not a concern to be worried about as by the time ANY hub grease crosses that many barriers in sufficient quantity environmental contaminations would of already done much more damage. Same as with graphite additive greases (5.3.), but without any negative impact on bicycle bearings. So lithium, or calcium greases with MoS 2won’t be bad for bearings, just needlessly expensive. You have provided NO DATA AT ALL. NLGI2 is fine but is it ‘ideal’ or ‘optimal?’ No, because bicycles don’t need it. Please provide ONE study that shows NLGI2 is necessary for typical bicycle loads as thus far you haven’t provided ANY data so that would be a first.” The last link in the above comment, from Jtekt. You’re takeaway is “polyurea is just a superior grease.” It doesn’t say that anywhere in the article. Superior is subjective… superior for what specific use? Per that article it is superior in the reciprocating sliding friction tester. Anything else? Who knows; that was the only direct comparison. Clearly Urea without any additives is superior to Lithium (at least in this specific test), no argument there… but we don’t buy grease without additives, we buy a manufactured product designed to minimize the shortcomings and maximize the strengths, so the data is useless other than to show the importance of additives with a lithium formulation. With the right additive, they had similar curves. So sure, not all lithium greases are equal… but that’s not the point you were attempting to make here. Friction differences at bicycle bearing speeds and loads between molybdenum additive grease and an “ordinary” one are negligible. Molybdenum as an additive has its place, but this is not it.

Synthetic greases.With synthetic base oils. Usually have properties superior toother comparable greases. With a (significantly) higher price. There’s absolutely no data (I’ve already provided this but you subsequently deleted the comment) in this entire article about how greases compare to one another in regard to wear and pitting, prevention of oxidation, washout, among any number of other scientific indicators. Just pure conjecture. You ever wonder why your white lithium grease looks a little brown when you pull it out even after short intervals? It’s because of oxidation, it’s not near the top of greases in it’s oxidation prevention properties. But since you never actually look into this data you’ll never understand greases in general.” Since bikes are ridden outside, bearing lubricant needs to keep dirt and water from entering. It should be resistant to being washed off with water, prevent corrosion, while operating temperature ranges from as cold as-20 °Cfor winter use (though some cyclists are even more extreme), to about 100 °Cfor bearings of bikes left in hot summer sun, then ridden. Placing the disc caliper behind the fork (a copy of a common design used in motorcycling) results in the braking force trying to pull the hub out of the flanges – downwards.Earlier Finish Line teflon grease is inconsistent, okay in some enclosed bearings, but eventually dried out leaving waxy chunks that clearly weren’t protecting or lubing at all. You haven’t answered numerous questions unless your only answers are “not in my experience” and “read the label.” Considering that you likely haven’t had any direct or prolonged experience with the vast majority of these greases the only thing we can take away is “read the label.”

Bicycle hubs are not sealed. They are “sealed”. It is a valid argument. If they were really sealed, water washout attributes would be irrelevant. Bike bearings have covers that both leak and allow dirt and water intrusion. So it’s more of a “dust protection” that doesn’t seal, advertised as a seal. Silicone oils suspended in a soap of lithium, calcium, PTFE, fumed silica etc. Lithium soap based silicone greases have excellent properties for lubricating bicycle bearings, but are outrageously expensive. Because there are greases that cost a lot less, while being good enough, and because it makes no sense for lubrication after a few seasons to cost more than a new bearing, silicone greases are not an optimal choice. For a wide range of working temperatures (for -25 °Cto hottest Africa heat), with very good water resistance attributes, but not too expensive – lithium complex greasewith ISO water resistance level I. With, or without EP additives (doesn’t really matter). Still, this grease costs about double the price of ordinary lithium, or calcium based greases.Another important thing is the speed. When a bicycle is ridden around 30 km/h, wheels turn about 250 times per minute (250 rpm). Pedals are rarely turning faster than 100 revolutions per minute, while the steerer bearings rpm is much lower. Also, the distances traveled by bearing balls are relatively small due to the small diameter shaft. When the tyre travels around one meter, hub bearings cover a distance of under 10 centimeters.

If you want a best possible, expensive grease for a piece of mind – go for it, by all means. It is an overkill, but each choose for themselves. I would also add that I haven’t noticed discs transfering a lot of heat to the hub itself. There’s a lot of aluminium and steel there, and when braking is hard, there’s usually a lot of wind and rotation to cool it all down. Would expect the discs to warp from overheating long before hub grease gets hot. Might put this to the test in the summer. 🙂For what it’s worth, based on my practical and theoretical experience and knowledge, for bike use, if servicing bearings annually, practically any grease is OK. If one is riding in extremely wet/muddy/sandy conditions, a 6-month service makes some sense – if one wants to be on the safe side.

I’m also curious why this grease so little known, maybe because developed by ukrainians or being new on market. In Eastern Europe XADO revitalisants are mostly used as car oil additives. I want to use grease for NEXUS 7 internal hub and generator hub ball bearing cup and cone lubrication for parts to last as long as possible because they are expensive to replace unlike in ordinary bicycle ball cup and cones. Although ball bearings themselves are standart and pretty cheap. My main “objections” to aluminium and polyurea greases are price and compatibility. Put plainly: for traffic safety, “the best” option is a tank, while an optimal recommendation most people would be well served with is just a plain old Volvo car.

Polytetrafluoroethylene ( PTFE) is a synthetic fluoropolymer of tetrafluoroethylene and is a PFAS that has numerous applications. The commonly known brand name of PTFE-based composition is Teflon by Chemours, [3] a spin-off from DuPont, which originally discovered the compound in 1938. [3] Greases where PTFE isn’t an additive, but a soap (or combination ofPFTE/PFPE soaps), that keeps base oil in suspension. Harder to find, more expensive, less compatible to mixing with other commonly used greases (see paragraph6.). Apart from that, characteristics are good for lubricating bicycle bearings. NLGI1 does not leak out of bearings faster especially with many of these are sealed bearings with covers. Please support WITH DATA.