Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Liberator Gold

Product Information

Gold Trim – I do my gold Trim with Retributor Armour. I used to do it with Balthasar Gold, then a few layers of Auric Armour but that took forever and came out too yellow. This new method is faster and looks better. Basically I do Retributor then hit it with a couple coats of Agrax Earthshade. Anyway, here’s how I paint them with the award winning (awards pending) Completely Ok Dark blue Armour method.:

Adding more layers – I highlight the cabling with Moot Green to give it a brighter look that pops against the dark armor. I edge highlight the Bolter with Evil Sunz Scarlet and use Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet to build up the cloth tabard. The eye lenses are Mephiston Red with a spot of Evil Sunz Scarlet. I also wash the leather parts with Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil.New paints are always exciting to me since I am primarily a painter. GW's last additions to their paint range, the Technical Paints, were a resounding success, and now they bring us Retributor Gold and Liberator Gold. Retributor is a Base paint while Liberator is a Layer paint. These are meant to coincide with the new Stormcast Eternals models, and having painted one, they work perfectly for them. Edge highlighting – The metal and gold parts get an edge highlight of Ironbreaker, and I use the same color for the rivets. For the armor, I do an edge highlight with The Fang and the another smaller edge highlight with Snow Shadow on the corners and top edges. I edge the leather parts with Mournfang Brown. I do a standard gemstone pattern on the gemstone on his shoulder pad. For the love of god, don’t do the armour 1st. Start with the fresh hell that is gold trim on chaos marines. The Liberator Gold paint from Citadel is a high-quality acrylic paint specifically formulated for miniature painting. It boasts a rich, metallic pigmentation that provides excellent coverage and a lustrous, matt finish. This paint is considered a “must-have” in a beginner’s palette, as its versatility and foundation-like quality make it an ideal base coat for layering and highlighting other colors. The pigments in this paint are carefully selected and blended to create a color that will truly make your miniatures shine, and can be seen as a cornerstone of any miniature painter’s collection. What armies to paint with Liberator Gold I was wondering how close in color the new ones are the the "old" ones I have. Also what is the main difference in the type of paint it is. Thanks.

We want a nice, colder gold over a warm redish gold. So don’t worry about putting down a layer of retributor armour. Instead…. The VMA range also have metallic colours - blue, red, etc. The blue is fantastic, but the red isn't as metallic as I'd hoped. You can mix in some silver paint to make them more metallic, and then use some inks or Tamiya clear to deepen the colour intensity, so it's still worth trying them out and seeing how they work for you. Using mainly an olive green and yellow colour scheme for the squad, I opted to add an accent colour of deep red, both for the Sergeant’s helmet stripe and for personal heraldry on the powerfists. As we currently don’t make transfers for the Mantis Warriors Chapter, I had to freehand the insignia and opted for the older (easier to paint) emblem – which seems perfectly fitting for 1st Company veterans of the Badab War. The brighter golds are rather wan-looking and have poor coverage. They need to be mixed with a tan/ochre (say about 1:1) for a first (and sometimes second) coat to help the next few gold-only coats look solid. They do produce a beautiful and realistic-looking gold if you are willing to spend the time on them though, and they are great for highlighting most other brands of gold paint too.

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The blue shoulder pauldrons are one of the most distinctive parts of the Hammers of Sigmar and they stand out a lot amongst the gold around the top half of the miniature. To paint them I gave a smooth layer of Citadel Kantor Blue, washed it with Citadel Drakenhof Nightshade shade, then reapplied the Kantor Blue, leaving the shade around the edges of the blue, and in the dip next to the ridge nearest the miniature’s head. Next I added some Vallejo White to the Kantor Blue and and highlighted the lower portion (the side furthest from the head) and the top of the ridge (nearest the head). I then added more White to the previous mix and did one final highlight along the bottom edge of the lower portion, and across the top of the ridge. The shoulder symbol was painted using pure White. Mix a ton of Lahmian Medium into Kabalite green. Do a few layers of this Starting at the mid point of one half of the sword. The at the same point, hit the otherside of the sword blade and go towards the tip. Continue to do layers of this, progressively moving away from the center of the sword. Ok, now it’s time to paint the shoulder pad. I really dislike using transfers, and I hated how goofy the old Night Lords transfers looked and I hate trying to make transfers fit on rounded shoulder pads. So what I’ve been doing for the last few years is freehanding shoulder icons. And today, I’m going to show you how that process works for my night lords. These are the armies that I would recommend painting with Liberator Gold, as they all have a lot of metallic and machinery elements that would benefit from the shine and metallic look of this paint. Liberator Gold Colour Schemes & Combinations Red: Mephiston Red is a deep, rich red that can be used as an analogous color to Liberator Gold. This color combo creates a sense of warmth and energy, making it perfect for highlighting the details of the metallic elements of your miniatures.

In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. By popular demand, this week we’re looking at how to paint the terrifying VIII legion, the Night Lords. The Night Lords After this starts looking ‘good’ add in some ‘cool’ by mixing Lahminan Medium with Ulthuan Grey, repeating the above process but further down the blade. Basecoat with Night Lords Blue – The new Night Lords Blue is great. It’s a little more saturated than Kantor Blue, and it’s the right darkness level to start with. Give your primed mini two thin coats of Night Lords Blue, and put an extra thin layer on the top spots to make them a little bluer.Lord of the Night by Simon Spurrier. A long lost Night Lord from the heresy goes up against an entire planet alone. Until ADB’s Night Lords trilogy this was the go-to for source material about the 8th legion. For the silvery metallics I use Citadel Leadbelcher and Model Air Chrome. You can tell the two different shades, with the MAC being the lighter metallic. They were both then washed with Citadel Nuln Oil before having the Leadbelcher and MAC reapplied. Finally, MAC was used as an extreme highlight on the areas of Leadbelcher to make the corners and angles stand out.