LIGHTWEIGHT 25.4mm BICYCLE ALLOY SEATPOST SADDLE STEM 300mm LONG

Product Information

It is easiest to measure the existing seatpost outer diameter – if there is a well-fitting seatpost on the bike. In case there’s no seatpost, we would need to measure the seat-tube’s inner diameter (using calipers, and minding to measure the tube itself, not the seat-clamp’s inner diameter). The Thudbuster ST weighs in at 580g (31.6 version) and is built out of forged aluminum with threaded, hard anodized aluminum axles. Note that the new axles are serviceable, unlike those found in the previous version. This handy PDF from Cane Creek outlines the differences between the two versions of the Thudbuster ST. Method 1: if the frame already has a mounted matching seatpost – one that attaches firmly enough so it doesn’t slide, while being narrow enough to allow easy mounting and dismounting – then it is sufficient to measure its outer diameter, as was explained above in the section –“How to measure the seatpost diameter?”. Painting, or chrome plating could also be done – just take it into account when machining to not have the new seatpost too narrow, or too wide.

Since measuring often can’t be done to a 1/100 of a millimeter in accuracy, the next section gives a list of the most commonly used standard seatpost diameters. If a measured diameter differs, it can be assumed that the correct diameter is the standard one that most closely matches the measured diameter. If you don't feel your bike needs to be any more comfortable, and you're not fussed about 100 grams, then aluminium seems like a smart choice. If you want to drop the weight or add some cushion, look to spend more. The results were as I might have expected. All the posts performed really well. All of them helped reduce chatter. The carbon posts had a little more ‘give’ in them. But ultimately it would be tough to say that any of them outperformed the other by any serious margin. Value One thing I really liked about the Kinekt is the saddle rail clamp. It has two simple screws to tighten and adjust the saddle. There’s a spring that keeps tension to separate the lower and upper plate. This self-fixes the nuts into place so you don’t have to hold them while loosening or tightening the plate into place. A nice touch.The FSA SL-K head is harder to adjust precisely and it's heavy. FSA K-Force is lighter and has a similar 2 bolt design to the Save and exists in 25.4 but may be harder to find. There are different lengths on offer, too. Seatposts will have a marker which shows the minimum amount of post that can be inside the seat tube. If you ride a small frame with a lot of seatpost showing, you'll need to make sure you buy a post that allows for this. Enve's 2nd generation head is better than the old one but still not that good IMO, and it's expensive, overpriced as most things Enve. Don’t punch it in. If it can’t be eased in by hand, it’s probably too wide. Forcing it in makes it very, very difficult to move or take out later. It might even damage some frames.

But measuring the circumference means you only have to distinguish a 0.6 mm difference (because everything is multiplied by 3.14…), which is doable.But bikes and bike parts are more than just functional items. We’re drawn to bicycles and components that not only appear to fit our performance criteria but also our eye. Enve makes lovely looking parts, including this seatpost, that no doubt provide joy to those who shell out their hard-earned cash for them. And in the end, it’s hard to argue against that. Specs Cane Creek’s eeSilk suspension seatpost offers 20mm of elastomer-based vertical compliance and is made from forged and machined aluminum with titanium fastening hardware. This emphasis on premium materials, along with the post’s minimalistic design, means the eeSilk weighs in at less than 300 grams–a comparable weight to many performance alloy seatposts. All seatposts clamp to the saddle in their own unique way, and have different methods of allowing the saddle to point slightly down, slightly up or remain flat. Though some brands like to play exception to the rule, the majority of bikes are designed to fit a seatpost of either 31.6mm or 27.2mm.

Having said that: going a bit too narrow can be fixed with some DIY shims from Coca-Cola cans (that’s one thing that drink is good for 🙂 ), I’ll be honest, when it came to Enve, there was a time when I wondered what all the fuss was about. Then I rode a set of its gravel wheels. My expectations of its products were forever raised by this syrupy smooth set of hoops. I had high demands for the seatpost. Does the frame have some shims that reduce the seat-tube’s inner diameter, allowing such a narrow seatpost to be held in place? Aero road bikes come with aero seatposts. These are flatter and designed to channel air more seamlessly, limiting the resistance that slows you down.while going a bit too wide would call for some more grinding – but it’s probably a safer way to go (“measure three times, cut once” is a local saying). How to measure the seatpost diameter? The easiest and most accurate method is to use calipers (Vernier, or digital), as shown in picture 2. Measuring seatpost diameter using calipers.

I’ve only gotten four or five rides in with the new Thudbuster, but I’m quite impressed. The redesigned seat clamp is fantastic, and I found the new elastomer system to work very well. Unlike some of the softer, coil-sprung posts, the new Thudbuster offers a nice mix of chatter dampening and medium-hit suspension to take the edge off of sharper bumps. And, it doesn’t feel as if it has as much of an effect on pedaling efficiency as other, longer travel posts do. It can be seen from picture 2 that the seatpost is marked as 31.6 mm wide (and 410 mm long), while it really measures only 31.42 mm. This means the seatpost will probably not fit firmly enough to stay in place inside a seat tube meant for 31.6 mm wide seatposts. Always measure! 🙂 To help prevent mistakes when purchasing or changing seatposts, this article explains what kinds of seatpost diameters are most commonly used and how they are measured. Only diameter (width) is dealt with here. The length of the seatpost depends on frame geometry (design) and size – i.e. how much the saddle needs to be raised from the end of the seat tube. A separate article explains the maximum amount of seatpost extension from the frame (minimal insertion length). For seatpost height in terms of bicycle fitting, see: Setting up comfortable riding position. It works a treat. You get two upper clamps so you can run 7x9mm carbon rails or 7mm round alloy rails. The lower clamp can be reversed depending on your desired saddle angle in relation to your frame’s geometry. Once the saddle rails have been inserted in between these two clamps it's just a case of tightening the titanium bolts with a 4mm allen key. Micro adjustments are possible once the saddle is pretty much in place: tightening the front bolt will lower the saddle, while tightening the rear will raise it. Measuring the circumference of the post and dividing by Pi is a good method. There are even circumference tape measures to do it.Similarly, if you ride a very small frame size and intend to have the saddle quite low, make sure there's nothing obstructing a longer seatpost from slotting in. However, whilst you can always cut a seatpost that's too long, you can't add to the length if it's too short. A more modern trend, mostly on mountain bikes, where stronger seatposts are required (without too much extra weight) led to a new “oversized” standard of 27.4 mm (and wider). Most seatposts are a lot wider than 15.75 mm. Machining the sidewalls down would weaken them tremendously in my opinion. The safest way to determine this is to measure (I like to say that one good measurement is better than a thousand expert opinions 🙂 ).