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Posted 20 hours ago

Honeywell ST699

£9.9£99Clearance
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ZTS2023
Joined in 2023
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This has lead me to think that while I'm replacing valves anyway I may as well use the opportunity to fit Thermostatic valves to all the upstairs radiators. I always thought I would need to replace the boiler system to get these but (unless I'm very mistaken) it's just a case of swapping the valves on the existing system. Not so worried about downstairs but our upstairs rooms are very prone to overheating and I think TRVs would really help and save money.

very pleased with service and correspondence I received from you ,I will have no hesitation to use you again Received a bulkhead valve for my old Worcester boiler at a competitive price and delivered as promised. That said based on your prior ST699 wiring. I think your hot water was permantly on as you had linked L->5->6 . And the HW-OFF (7) was linked to CH-ON (3). When it didn't work, I've Googled again and come across this Forum. Whilst I can find a few issues other users have had, I can't find anything that relates to my issue. I have noticed however, that the old wiring to the ST699 that is redundant, wasn't as per the diagram I saw in one of the posts. I have cables linking: As an aside my 'bay' window is more like a box on the side of the house, it's not full height and as far as I can see the large window sill is the only thing separating it from the outside, which seems like a horrible design from an energy saving/warmth point of view considering all the other walls have cavity wall insulation.Does that mean hot water tank in airing cupboard which is heated via the boiler? (You may also have a separate immersion switch for the tank). But this has got me thinking, why stop there? Our boiler is controlled by an ancient looking Honeywell timer which from Googling I think is a Honeywell ST699 (except our version features a delightful brown/beige colour scheme!) There is also an equally old looking thermostat dial in the hall (just above the radiator which doesn't strike me as an ideal location!).

They've both got what looks like a switch with A - B settings, the one on the pipe running down past the cylinder is set to B, and the one on the pipe running into the cylinder is set to A, someone has also written on this one with a marker pen putting a C next to the A and an O next to the B (presumably meaning open and closed?). Can you please provide a picture of the ST9400 wiring. Do you also have any pictures of the prior ST699 wiring to compare. If you don't have a picture of the ST699 wiring can you carefully outline the connections on the ST699 (terminal, wire colour, etc) and to which terminals they were moved for the ST9400. You said "I have cables linking:" did you mean "I HAD cables linking.. on the ST699". Whilst wire colours do necessarily mean anything on a central heating system, the combinations you have are a bit unusual. For example blue being used for CH on & HW on and brown for hot water off. That's based on your indication above about wiring on ST699.I've been doing a lot of research on heating systems recently, and for those that have seen my other topic I've been having trouble with a cold radiator which I think will need new valves. Sounds like there would be a bit more work involved in sorting the flexibility side out, as well as updating thermostatic room control, so I think I might just leave that bit alone until the day comes that I install a whole new combi-system. Whilst Hive has an earth terminal it isn't actually connected to anything. Hive doesn't need an earth connection itself. The terminal is just there to 'park' any earth wires that happen to be present and keep them together so that they are safely out of the way of the other terminals.

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